Trail Bike Adventure Magazine

Cape York - Solo and Unsupported

Friday, 06 August 2010 15:42

Cape York - Solo and Unsupported

by Mark Carmichael

I threw out a speculator to the guys on ADVrider.com to see if I could drum up some interest in a ride to Cape York. Initially there was some interest but as usual, when the time draws near, names drop off. Not that I'm pointing fingers ... it was a long way just to get to the start line.

So, it’s just me! No problem, I’ve been riding solo most of my riding life … what could possibly go wrong?

The idea was to chuck the bike on the trailer and tow it from Sydney to Mossman, QLD – ‘only 2,600k’. Leaving work a little early Friday afternoon, I went home, packed the Jeep, strapped the bike to the trailer, kissed Weezy and the dog goodbye and took off. Only a 30hr drive ahead!!

Totally stuffed, I arrived in Mossman at 7am Sunday, sorted a place to leave the Jeep and trailer then headed off. So begins my Cape York adventure – a quick look at Mossman Gorge first though and stunning views.

All going well, the planned ride should take around 10 days. For the first section, I wanted to ride the Bloomfield track to Cooktown and ride the CREB track on the way back.

I remember getting to the first creek crossing on the Bloomfield track … one of dozens of creek and river crossings experienced on the ride, and there goes another plan!! I was going to record all the crossings with names and comments on how easy/hard they were – yeah right!

Within a couple of hours I arrived in Cooktown, having really enjoyed the track as it meandered the Bloomfield river and checking out the iconic landmarks of ‘The Lions Den Hotel’ and ‘Black Mountain’

From Cooktown I headed to Battlecamp Rd and up through Lakefield National Park where I’d meet the PDR (Peninsula Development Road) at Musgrave Station.
Once on Battlecamp Rd the fun begins as you head into Cape territory the home of crocodiles and adventure – happy days!


Riding Battlecamp Rd is a total blast and also where you come across the first real bulldust of the trip!

A note on bulldust holes; they’re usually surrounded by rock hard clay. The circumference and depth of the hole varies from not bad to WTF! Around most holes you find bits of 4WD that‘s broken off because of the bashing they get as they hit the other side – gees, I think I found 'Top Gear's' reasonably priced car in one hole. During the ride, I learnt to respect bulldust!


Crossing the Laura River makes you appreciate the volume of water that flows in the wet season

With a 550k day over, I camped the first night at Musgrave Station.

Day 2 – I was up early the next morning and on the road with a destination of Weipa and my first change from the original plan. I’d come to grief late the previous afternoon in one of the Cape’s infamous WTF holes of bulldust – this thing was like a swimming pool – and I came off second best with cracks in my left elbow and very bruised ribs and leg!

So taking the soft option, I rode 500k to Weipa, set up camp and kicked back to enjoy a beer and great sunset.

Day 3 – My plan was to get back on the PDR and head north to the start of the famous OTL (Overland Telegraph Line). This is billed as the star attraction for a Cape ride.

As an aside … nature abounds on the Cape and takes on many forms but I was particularly fascinated with the various shapes termite mounds adopt!

Actually the southern end of the OTL is so understated for such a big draw card, I couldn’t believe it was so unremarkable. Blink and you’d miss it.

The start of the track might be humble…the track is anything but. It’s just brilliant, with every sort of terrain; creeks, rivers, sand, clay, rock, technical and beautiful all in the length of the southern and northern OTL. It certainly lives up to its reputation and very highly recommended.


The rivers and creeks are amazing with crystal clear water and great scenery

Gunshot Creek was definitely everything written about it – for 4WD’s that is. It’s really no challenge for an adventure bike and would be easily tackled by moderate riders of big GS’s.

Exiting the southern OTL means a ride of approximately 15k on the PDR until the start of the northern OTL and an area famous for stunning fresh water streams and a number of waterfalls.
There’s a lot of concern about introducing pollution to these pristine waters so there’s no washing with detergents, etc. Nothing to say I can’t swim with all my gear on though. After three days riding the Cape with temps in the mid 30’s, I needed it!

After a great swim I set up camp for the night at Elliot Falls campground.

Day 4 – I’d started breaking camp around 6am just to beat the heat, plus for today I had this crazy idea I wanted to do the entire northern OTL - except for actually crossing the Jardine River at the original crossing - then I’d back track to an exit out to the northern bypass road.

Continuing north on the OTL from Elliot Falls, there's still a few interesting creek crossings, plus the OTL becomes really soft deep sand and the track gets very narrow. This part of the track was hard going…it was like single track and the bars and panniers continually got caught in the bush. Hard work in deep sand!

I tried to make it to the Jardine but finally gave up. At less than 1k away, I could see the tree line but just couldn't make it. I was pushing the bike trying to get through the sand, it’s not even 10am and I was totally knackered, so I turned around defeated!
Oh...did I mention all the creek crossings!

Making it back to the northern bypass, I headed toward Bamaga. Detouring to check out some WWII plane wrecks and other sights. I checked out Bamaga and Seisia but decided to head further north and set up camp at Punsand Bay.

Day 5 – Time to head to the tip and take the obligatory photo of the northern most point on the Australian mainland. Some of the tracks up there are great value for people that love sand riding.

Just before I got there, some lowlife pinched the sign that proves you’ve finally made it. So I had to make do with me and my fishing rod!

I camped a couple of days at Punsand Bay then headed south. Unfortunately, still sore from the bulldust hole encounter on the first day, I decided against the hard parts I’d originally planned and headed back to do the CREB track.

The CREB was a pleasant surprise and more technical than I’d expected. Plus on the southern section the scenery is brilliant.

I camped the night in Daintree Village, did a river cruise then headed back to Mossman to pack the Jeep and head home.

An amazing adventure and if you ever get the chance…just do it!

Mark Carmichael

Mark Carmichael's Solo and Unsupported Cape York story goes in the draw to win an Epic Video camera and a set of Dirt Freak Gear thermals! We welcome all trail/adventure related stories, you can check out the deal 'here' Send em in!